By Gretta Monahan
New York Fashion Week is well underway, and it’s giving us all a glimpse of the kind of style that will be front and center before we know it. The shows so far have been a mishmash of high-energy statements ranging from punk goddess and no-holds-barred glamour—even with many of the looks for day were anything but shy.
Fall was back in black in a big way on the runways at Alexander Wang. Black minidresses and coats bore all manner of metal accoutrements—like spikes, studs, and zippers on everything from gloves and belts to pockets. Shots of hot pink were there, too, on jackets and dresses, also adorned with metal details.
Christian Siriano, too, went full-on glam with a collection of sumptuous scarlet-hued, big-belted fur coats and evening dresses in velvet and metallic jacquard. He sent models of all body types (something he loves to do and always does with aplomb) out in glorious red satins and solid satins, with celebrities like Selma Blair in a power catsuit, and Danielle Brooks in a stunning turquoise gown.
Cushnie et Ochs continued their tradition of (mostly) minimalist body-skimming dresses and skirts in statement-making neutrals, with cut-outs and some bright color thrown into the mix. The formula has always been a hit for them, and this season’s no different. The audience was wowed by the white-on-white looks (flowing pants topped off with a cutout silk blouse), one-shoulder minidresses, and shimmering silk slip dresses.
Even daytime (and office-ready) collections brought in touches of exuberance. There was Rosetta Getty’s take on the tailored suit and her long leather trenches. Her designs for evening were quieter than Wang’s or Siriano’s, but still elegant: beautifully draped, feminine velvet and satin dresses, pulled together (literally) with the leather cording.
Some stunning daytime pieces were on display at Tibi, where designer Amy Smilovic has taken her created clean, modern style and used it to create a terrific collection full of both energy and ease. I loved the palette of brights, like an orange oversized sweaters over an electric blue skirt; orange under tailored tan suiting, on the trim of tan v-necks; brilliant acid yellow coats over navy jumpsuits; and lots of play on proportion—like the gray suit with its length jacket that she sent out beneath a white cropped puffer jacket.
Tanya Taylor, who’s made her mark in New York with artful and big-colored prints made by the designer in her studio, carried on her signature flourishes. I spoke with her and asked her what this season’s collection is all about, she told me she wanted to keep the spirit of color and pattern alive, while making the collection “sharper.” And she certainly did that—with bright flashes of hot pink floral midi dresses, shoulder-baring plaid blouses over long pencil skirts, and flowing sleeveless frocks in abstract geometric-patterns that have a vibe that’s feminine yet relaxed.
And then there was the grandaddy of all glam masters, Tom Ford. With his long history of over-the-top and seductive bravado in all of his work, every guest at his show knew they were in for something big. And he didn’t let anyone down—with a slew of sequined animal prints, big patchworks, and in-your-face bright colors and pop prints, the highest of heels, and many, many logos.